Stunning bezels
Put simply a bezel is the metal which holds a gemstone in place. Bezels are used in rings and pendants, and also watchmaking, and silver is the preferred material.
The term can be traced back to 1611.
A bezel can be made for any kind of stone; precious or gemstone.
It takes a skilled artisan to create a custom fitted bezel like the one pictured above.
How is the bezel created?
In the art of jewelry making, the stone is always chosen first. This way the width of the bezel can be created so the stone fits securely within it.
Free form and odd shaped stones are difficult to shape and this is where the real skill comes to play.
The bezel is wrapped around the stone carefully and once the jewelry maker is satisfied that she has the right length it is cut to shape.
Then the bezel is cut and the edges are filed. The ends have to be flush so that they can be soldered.
Tension is created by pulling the bezel tighter, overlapping the ends, then bringing them back flush.
Sat on charcoal blocks or white blocks, the bezel is then soldered with a torch.
The bezel is cooled in water before it is brought back to the stone for a proper fitting.
Does the bezel fit the stone?
Sit bezel over the stone and pass the stone all the way through. While it should be a snug fit, you have to ensure the stone sits as flat as possible.
Before the bezel is shaped around the stone, it has to be sanded. This is done by putting the bezel on paper and moving in figure 8 gently.
A burnisher presses edges of bezel around the stone to hold it in place.
Many bezels are flat, however, creating unique and inspiring designs takes time and a great deal of skills.
